Need Help with Cat Pee Smell

You need an enzyme base cleaner.
Apply and keep covered with plastic so it stays wet and the enzyme can do it's job.

Recommemd trying a product called "What Odor", it is Strong enough to get rid of the stinkiest smell of all – A Skunk! works wonders... here is the link...
https://www.whatodor.com/flare/next

I used a product called Kids'n'Pets to get rid of the stains left behind in our house by the previous owners dog. It got rid of the smell and the stain pretty well. I've seen it at pretty much every grocery store, or Wal Mart has it. It gets out a ton of other stains, too.

I think you need one of the enzyme cleaners / neutralizers sold at the pet stores. I don't know the name, but I have had good luck with the one in a white bottle with red letters. Sunshine helps a lot too, if you can make that happen in that spot.

We bought a house with previous cats. We used Kilz on every floor where there was a stain... cement floors in the basement, wood subfloors on the main floor. We did a couple of coats, gave it a few days to dry, and then some very up-close sniff tests before laying carpet. It absolutely worked. Later, when it would get humid, we had one area of old shelving in the basement that would smell, and we realized it was the cat pee and ripped out the shelf. Make sure it's just on the floor! Good luck.

Try Pine sol. Something about the pine oil really seems to get the smell out. I live in a house with several cats, one who, even though is neutered, still tries to mark his territory. I even mix my Arm & Hammer fabric refresher with pine sol. The pine smell fades after it dries out, and I don't find my toms sniffing around those spots any more either.
Good luck, and if you find something that works better (the enzyme stuff I used to buy never worked as well) let me know. Although any of that stuff can get expensive. Oh, and I haven't noticed any fade spots on my carpet or couch from the pine sol either, but do make sure what you need to use it on is colorfast.

I love my cats, too, but sometimes they're more a challenge than children are!

Sometimes felines behave this way because of physical discomfort; sometimes it's a reaction to stress; sometimes it's just perversity, I think.

There's a product called "Nature's Miracle," which I get at pet stores. It's a little pricey but I think it's worth every penny, and I try to have a gallon of it at home all the time. I use it either with a spray bottle or - if called for - by pouring right out of the big bottle. (It works for other odors, too, and I think it works better than the cheaper products that claim to do the same thing.) I use it on any carpet, furniture, etc., that acquires that distinctive kitty smell.

It is also invaluable to invest in a blacklight (also available at pet stores, and lasts for years if you keep your kids from playing with it!) which will let you see exactly where the area is and how large it is, because you have to attack the *entire* problem area. Aim the blacklight not only on that corner but on the adjacent wall and anything else near that corner, i.e., books or toys on a floor-level shelf. (The same product works on books and toys, by the way - using a clean cloth.) On a carpet, the product has to soak through both the carpeting and the pad. When it has dried completely, the smell should be gone... and it nearly always is. You might need to block the area off to the cats until it is dry all the way through. What sort of flooring is under the carpet? You may need to check that, too. A wood floor can hold smells that cats' noses notice, even though your nose may not. (I could tell you a horror story... but I won't.)

One time I had to call the carpet cleaning people in to take care of a area that had gotten out of control over time, because their "pet problem stuff" is even stronger. Again, the cats were quarantined from that area (in this case, a whole bedroom) for several days - again, because they can smell things that you and I can't. Professional help is pricey, too, but it was a bad situation - a matter of either having that done or replacing a whole lot of carpeting.

You could try the Nature's Miracle on the concrete and see if it works. Another possible remedy for concrete is to get some strong rubber gloves for yourself and apply full- strength Clorox to the place - that may work. But be careful - full-strength Clorox is nasty to work with. Again, use a blacklight to see the problem, and cordon off the area until it is completely dry.

You definitely need to take your cats to the vet and make sure they are well, because answering the call of nature in the wrong places can be a cat's way of saying, "I don't feel good, Ma"! If they get a clean bill of health, then make sure their home litter boxes and the areas around them are very clean. Change the litter often. Sometimes cats are even persnickety about what kind of litter is in the box!

Hope this will help. I think all cat owners run into these periods of difficulty once in a while. But then, raising boys isn't always a piece of cake, either, so you can work through this.

check at the hardware store. They make this stuff that is acidic (or basic?) to depolarize the urine or something. You can treat the carpet and pad with it, and it works great on cement. But FYI -- my parents bought a house and there was cat urine that hadn't been treated for a year....and they had to rip out the carpet, pad, subfloor....treat the cemend and lay new subfloor. If you take a blacklight you can see the urine spots....if you can see it chances are it will smell. GL!

There is a spray called Natures Miracle. You can get it at Petsmart or most pet stores. I have used it for years and it is the only thing that will get rid of the stain/odor. Here are the steps to take on your type of stain.
Pull back the carpet. Spray the sub floor, both sides of the pad, and both sides of the carpet. Things should be pretty wet. Cover with a damp towel and leave it until the towel dries. Pull back the carpet and let it dry. It may take a few treatments but the spray will eliminate the organic matter that is causing the smell. It works great on any organic stain. It's the only thing I use on my carpets now. Good luck!

This was the ONLY thing that helped and I've tried almost every odor killer out there:

ODOR REMOVER

16 oz. (2 cups) hydrogen peroxide (I buy it at the Dollar store)
2 tsp. baking soda
2 small drops liquid dishwashing soap (Dawn, Palmolive, etc.)

Place all ingredients in a glass jar or bowl. Gently stir--do not beat or shake--until baking soda is dissolved.

If urine is fresh, be sure to blot up any excess urine with dry paper towels or a dry washcloth before the next step.

Pour mixture over urine spot, making sure to cover the entire spot. Allow mixture to completely soak the area being treated. Do not rub or scrub! Let sit for 24 hours without disturbing.

After 24 hours, take clean paper towels or a clean, white washcloth and blot up any remaining liquid (Again, do not rub or scrub.).

Allow area to air dry completely. If you are treating carpet, you can vacuum over the area when dry.

Makes 16 oz. (2 cups) of solution.

GENERAL TIPS
The strength of hydrogen peroxide required for the recipe is the 3% solution. This strength is what is commonly found at pharmacies, discount stores and grocery stores.
The solution is most effective within one hour of mixing, but you can keep a batch of solution in a spray bottle to have on hand for fresh accidents--it will work just fine.
Do not enclose the mixture in an airtight container (a spray bottle is fine, though), or you could have a big mess on your hands! The reason for this is because when the ingredients are combined they release oxygen. Remember making "volcanoes" out of baking soda and vinegar when you were a little kid? Similar principle here.
Carpet, furniture and mattresses typically require 1-2 treatments. Concrete, wood, tile and other hard surfaces usually need 3-5 treatments (1 treatment per day).
ALTERNATE METHODS OF APPLICATION
Spray bottle--A spray bottle works best for applying the solution to small areas of concrete, linoleum, or other hard surfaces. It is also the best way to apply the solution to vertical surfaces like walls, shower tile and furniture. Just be sure to thoroughly spray the area you are treating. A spray bottle is generally not the best way to treat carpet.
Mop--A mop is a good way to apply the solution to large areas of concrete, linoleum, or other hard surfaces. Generously apply the solution to the surface and let it soak. Do not mop or wipe up.
Garden watering can--A garden watering can is best for medium to large areas--indoors or outdoors.
Carpet cleaning machine--Just mix several batches of the recipe at a time and use it in place of the water and carpet shampoo. Don't vacuum the solution back up--just let it soak on the carpet until it air dries. While we have had many, many customers use this method without a single report of damage to a machine, our recipe is obviously not one of the solutions approved for use by the machine manufacturers. Using the recipe in your machine is at your own risk, and we are not responsible for any damage to customers' machines.
Chemical Sprayer--This is a good method to use when applying the recipe to large areas, indoors or outdoors. Use the pump-type sprayer with an attached spraying wand (about $10 at Wal-Mart or Home Depot), not the garden sprayer that you attach to a water hose. Make sure you use a new sprayer to ensure that there is no reaction to any chemical residue that might remain in the tank.

CONCRETE AND OTHER HARD SURFACES
For concrete and other hard surfaces, you want to make enough of the recipe to completely cover the stain. Pour, spray or mop on the solution on and let it soak. Do not mop or wipe up. Let it sit for 24 hours (depending on the humidity level, it will usually evaporate during this time). Repeat the treatment once a day for 3-5 days.

Something to keep in mind is that allowing the concrete to dry out after several treatments is often part of the odor removal process. If you've made multiple treatments and are still having odor, the best thing to do is stop treating. Let the area dry out for 5-7 days. You can even run a dehumidifier or put a fan on the area to help. We understand that it can be frustrating to wait 5-7 days, but letting the concrete dry out is often the difference in whether or not the odor is removed.

I've tried a bunch of the odor out stuff, pee be gone etc. but what I like best for quickest results is just vinegar and water. it works on the carpet, furniture and also when my cat gets mad when we leave town and pees on my daughters stuffed animals. (ugh if she weren't a great cat the rest of the time I'd probably find her a new home!) but we love her.
anyway the vinegar water works great. I put in a cup for a large spray bottle
GL

Odoban. You can find it at Walmart.
Good luck!

Hello!

I had the same issue a few years ago. There is a product called Nature's Miracle that I believe sells at Petco, it worked well on my carpets. I also would try a bleach/water mix on your concrete. You may already be aware of this but if a cat pees where it is not supposed to, it could be a sign your cat has a urinary tract infection which was the case for both of my cats at separate times. Good luck!

On the cement you can Kilz it. This is a primer that you can put over just about anything and it will take care of the smell. You can do this for the smell in the carpeted area too, just lift the carpet, clean it front and back with a carpet cleaner for pets then take out the portion of the pad that is effected, replace it and Kilz the floor below. This is the best you can do without replacing the carpet. Even if you were to replace it, you would need to Kilz the whole floor before laying new. This technique is not guaranteed but is the best you will get, cat pee just doesn't come out. My cousin had her cat stay with us 6 years ago and it peed 2 times in the basement, we thought we Kilzed it all but if it is real humid we can still faintly smell it.

We moved into a rental and it REEKED like pet urine even though the owner claimed to have cleaned the carpets. I bought this stuff called Urine Trouble (ha ha! LOVED the name!) and rather than try to sniff around and determine exactly where the odor was coming from, I put it in my Kirby Shampooer and just did the whole house with it. SMELL GONE! Got the stuff at Walmart and the odor of the cleaner (not BAD, although not what you want your house to smell like) dissipated as the carpet dried.

Hey S., are they male or female? Male is more difficult. My 19 year old cat is gettin lazy and if she gets trapped in a room she looses controll. She ruined a beautiful leather purse. She also pees in my shoes and my sons bathrobe. Most of my stuff I have to throw away. I use Oxi on my carpets. The cement is something I do not know about. Good luck! I am also at my wits end with mine. Mine has been a great cat up until these last couple years. Her teeth are also goin and if she eats hard food, she frequently throws up. (not as bad as urine) BEST WISHES with this issue.
L., wife of 23 years, Step mom of three, mom of two, grandmother of 6.

There is a product called "Push" that should work. It is a liquid bacteria that eliminates odors. It can be purchased at HY-KO or The Cleaning Supplier here in the SLC area. I am sure that it could be purchased at other janitorial supply stores also.

Regular carpet, upholstery, whatever type cleaner will not work. You need an enzyme digester that actually eats away the living enzymes in the urine. It is the only way to truly eliminate it. Don Aslet has a good one, or you could probably find one at Walmart. Make sure it is an "enzyme neutralizer" and you should be fine.

Yep, cat pee is a hard one to get rid of. I agree with the Kilz recommendation. It is widely available at home improvement stores. On humid/rainy days, the smell will still seem to surface. Good Luck!